Author: Malcolm MacLeod
Inside the Eagle Rock Brewery Public House, tables full of 20-somethings sipped on beer and wine while sampling items from the restaurant’s menu, which offers more than typical pub grub.
The selection will certainly surprise patrons expecting typical brewery fair of burgers, fries, fish and chips or chicken wings.
The original Eagle Rock Brewery opened in 2009, but the owners wanted to expand their business beyond their brewing headquarters with a restaurant on Colorado Boulevard. According to manager and Eagle Rock Brewery Cofounder Ting Su, they faced some struggles when the doors opened in December.
“Initially there was a little pushback from the community,” Su said. “Just because they were expecting more pub grub, and the fact that we didn’t do burgers and fries was disappointing to some people.”
Not everything on the menu is so outlandish, though. The delicious fried chicken with chimichurri and baby potatoes was crispy, with just the right amount of spice, and not too greasy. The smoked beef rib with kimchi is another delectable combination offered by the pub.
Still, one patron couldn’t help but express their own surprise after seeing scallops, cheese plates and duck liver toast on the brewery menu.
“I feel like they’re trying a little too hard to be hip,” the patron said.
A veteran of the brewing business, Su is happy with the way things have gone thus far and stands by the choices she and her partners Jerry Su and Jeremy Raub* have made for the restaurant.
“Considering that I’ve spent about 50 percent of my time in beer establishment, it is awesome to not have to have another burger and fries or fish and chips,” Su said. “The concept for us is really kind of elevating the dining experience. Public House really just means that there is beer and food. It doesn’t really specify what kind of food you have to serve, so for us, it’s just about having proper food and good beers.”
Su prefers to call the experience “elevated dining.” Her brother Jerry Su is the executive chef, and she said that he decides what is going to be on the menu based on the sustainability and seasonality of the ingredients, which are all chosen to complement their signature beers.
Of course, there would be no Public House without the Eagle Rock Brewery, whose best beers are on tap for all to enjoy. Their American Amber Ale tastes of caramel, nut and earthy hops on the finish. The Populist IPA is one of the brewery’s best sellers, and they also offer wine and hard cider.
Apart from the beer and unique menu, what really makes this place special is the atmosphere.
The front wall is composed almost entirely of windows, which opens up the intimate space and lets in the lively sounds of the busy street. At night, the space is dimly lit by strands of hanging white bulbs, which bring out the sheen of the bar’s red-brown wood.
“The space is beautifully designed,” said patron Caterina Gleijeses.
The restaurant’s seating arrangements can accompany large parties or an intimate night for two.
At first glance, the menu may be jarring for brewery fans, but the food, like the beer and atmosphere, have been artfully crafted for a unique dining and drinking experience in Eagle Rock that separates itself from other breweries in the area. The Public House is open for dinner from 6-10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday and 6-11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. On Saturdays and Sundays, Public House serves a special brunch menu as well from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
*A previous version of the article misstated the name of one of Su’s partners as Andrew Bakofsky. We apologize for the error.
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